What You Need to Know About Cosmeceuticals: The New Wave in Skincare
Fashion and beauty magazines are full of articles about “cosmeceuticals,” a new type of skin care product that they claim provides clinically proven improvements for a range of skin conditions, from aging to exposure prolonged in the sun. But what exactly are cosmeceuticals? Do they really work? And how do you know which type of cosmeceutical is right for your skincare needs?
IN cosmeceuticalFirst of all, it is a formulation that combines the aesthetic benefits of cosmetics with the proven restorative effects of ingredients isolated by pharmaceutical scientists. And yes, they really are effective in improving a number of skin conditions, including those caused by sun exposure and aging. Cosmeceuticals fall into five basic categories: antioxidants, retinoids, lightening agents, hydroxy acids, and botanicals. Being familiar with each is the key to knowing which one is right for your individual skincare needs.
Antioxidants: vitamin C, vitamin E and niacinamide
You know what happens when metal rusts: it rusts. Something similar happens to the skin as it ages: it is subject to oxidation due to exposure to a series of environmental aggressions. That’s why using skin care products with antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide is so beneficial. Vitamin C is not only a powerful antioxidant, but is also important in collagen synthesis and as a lightening agent. Vitamin E, another powerful antioxidant, is also known for its photoprotective properties; its ability to protect against UV rays has been the subject of numerous studies. In combination with sunscreen, vitamin E reduces the signs of aging caused by sun exposure. Niacinamide, a B vitamin, is used to treat rosacea plus sallow, the yellowish skin most common in the Asian population. It is very safe and demonstrates a good patient tolerability profile.
Retinoids: realaldehyde, esters, retinoic acid
Due to its strength and versatility, retinoic acid is the standard by which all other cosmeceuticals are measured. Retinoic acid is derived from vitamin A. You can find a variety of retinol-based products on the market. As a group, they are called retinoids and, in addition to retinoic acid, they include realaldehyde and esters. Most are topical formulations, although oral retinoic acid is used to treat severe acne. Retinoic acid also has anti-aging properties. It can reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and lighten hyperpigmentation associated with sun spots and age spots. Retinoids favor the thinning of the outermost layer and increase the regeneration of the epidermis. Side effects include skin irritation and redness. Other formulations, such as esters, do not have these side effects but are not as effective. For daily use, retinaldehyde must be effective and tolerated. Retinoid use should be discontinued up to one week before any cosmetic procedure such as laser, chemical peel, or microdermabrasion. However, they can be used in conjunction with these procedures to enhance and prolong their benefits. In fact, retinoids can speed healing.
Lightening Agents: Hydroquinone, Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid, Vitamin C
One of the most visible signs of skin damage associated with aging and sun exposure is localized hyperpigmentation, such as sun spots and age spots. A variety of lightening agents can reduce hyperpigmentation. The gold standard has been hydroquinone. Hydroquinone inhibits the formation of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color and causes sun and age spots. Hydroquinone is available in multiple strengths, typically as low as 4% in pharmaceutical grade products. However, due to their side effects of skin irritation and contact dermatitis, as well as possible mutagenic effects (the potential to cause genetic mutations), newer agents derived from natural substances have found their way into the mainstream. attention. (Hydroquinone has been banned in over-the-counter preparations in several European countries, as well as in Japan.)
These newer agents include azelaic acid, kojic acid, vitamin C, and even botanicals like licorice. Although not as potent as hydroquinone, these agents do not have any side effects and can be used every day. Vitamin C, popular as an antioxidant and for its role in collagen production, also works as a lightening agent. Vitamin C is not produced by the body and therefore must be ingested or applied topically. A variety of these lightening agents are often combined with retinoids and glycolic acid because they work synergistically to diminish pigmentation.
botanicals
The largest source of additives in cosmeceutical preparations today are botanical extracts from plants, flowers, fruits, berries, twigs, and bark. They can be classified into three basic groups: anti-inflammatories, antioxidants (see above), and skin-soothing agents. Some botanicals also support the immune system and facilitate repair. Some commonly used botanicals include aloe, soy, green tea, gingko biloba, and witch hazel.
Hydroxy acids: alpha, beta, poly
You’ve heard of the corrosive effects of acid. So why do acids play such an important role in cosmeceutical products? Because these are natural hydroxy acids. Some of them, such as glycolic, citric and tartatic acid, are derived from fruits. Lactic acid is derived from sour milk and was used by the ancient Egyptians for softer, smoother skin. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that is fat soluble and therefore particularly useful for those with oily skin, as the oil absorbs the acid.
Hydroxy acids act by exfoliating the skin, in this case removing the outermost layer. Glycolic acid, in addition to exfoliating, is also known for its moisturizing capacity. Glycolic acid also stimulates fibroblast cells in the skin to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid. Both collagen and hyaluronic acid form the support structure of the skin, but the amount of these natural acids decreases as we age. Botanicals, cosmeceuticals such as these derived from natural substances, also work synergistically with other agents, such as retinoids, to provide anti-aging effects to the skin.
Cosmeceuticals can improve a number of skin conditions that other cosmetics can only cover. But it’s important to consult your health care provider when considering cosmeceutical options. That’s also a good idea because many professional-grade cosmeceutical products are available only through doctors and dermatologists.
