Golf in Scotland
Scotland and golf go together like, well, Scotland and golf! Despite some lukewarm remonstrances from the Dutch and even the Chinese, it is now generally accepted that the game was first developed by the Scots, way back in the 12th century. (The name ‘golf’ derives from the Dutch ‘kolf’, a club, but we’ll cover this with a convenient veil.)
In any case, it was the Scots who took the idea, if not the ball, and ran with it until the sport became so popular that it was thought to be a danger to national security. In 1457, James II passed an act of parliament banning gambling as an “unprofitable sport” that should be “fully mourned and unused”. It seems that he was causing the youngsters to neglect their archery practice. The ban remained in force until James IV repealed it in 1502; he was killed in the crushing defeat of the Scots by the English at Flodden some 11 years later. Could it be that maybe his grandfather was right?
Thereafter, both royalty and commoners continued to cast small spherical objects around mainly coastal bushland areas until the first playing course established in 1567 was installed at Old Links at Musselburgh Racecourse. That area remains one of the premier golf districts in the world, with Muirfield, Archerfield and Luffness three world-famous courses within a few mile radius.
Golf is now played all over the world, often with something akin to religious fervour. However, the game in Scotland remains a unique experience, a world away from Japanese businessmen standing in lines on their driving ranges throwing balls into the nets, the well-groomed Spanish teaching courses drenched in sun, and the sumptuous and exclusive American courses where no expense has been spared. in its design and maintenance, it is unlike even the nice golf clubs of England. In Scotland, golf has really remained the people’s game. So you may need to book months in advance and take out a small mortgage to play on the hallowed turf of the Royal and Ancient in St Andrews, the ‘home of golf’, but almost every town, almost every town in the The surrounding county of Fife has its own golf course, often excellent, where you don’t have to book or pay a king’s ransom for the privilege and pleasure of playing there.
The same goes for most of Scotland, and those who come from abroad and even from south of the border are constantly amazed by the low costs, the uncrowded streets and, above all, the accessibility of the Scottish countryside. A little anecdote from one of East Lothian’s prestigious new courses bears this out: the Duke of Hamilton leased the land for the course, but before granting the lease, His Grace insisted that development could only proceed on the understanding that the course should be open to all.
And so much choice! Take borders, for example. You can play the magnificent Duke of Roxburghe course at Sunlaws near Kelso, or equally enjoy a round at any of the countless surrounding courses, which are not without character. There’s the Royal Burgh of Lauder’s ‘Championship’ course (population approx 3,000), for example, designed by two-time open champion Willie Park himself. The field has some beautiful views and presents some interesting challenges, especially since players sometimes share it with the local farmer’s sheep. (A piece of string goes around the greens to stop his invasion there; he just walks over it to putt.)
Many of the smaller courses turn out to be true hidden gems, not least in the friendliness of their welcome which extends to the hospitality of the clubhouse, where many hit well above their weight. Minto in the borders, or St Fillans in Perthshire are typical in this regard, small golf courses, far from the cities, but proudly maintained and offering delicious lunches after your round.
You’ll find courses the length and breadth of Scotland, in lovely locations both inland and (where it all began) on the coast. It is no accident that so many open places are on the Scottish coasts, Carnoustie, Muirfield, Turnberry and of course St Andrews. The northernmost course is right at Durness, as far as you can go on mainland Britain without falling off the end, where the views are stunning. Or try the fiendish links at Rosemarkie on the Black Isle north of Inverness, between the gorse and the sea and a test for the mettle of all. Non-playing group members are also well catered for: At the end of the course is Chanonry Point, hailed by many as the best place in the world to see dolphins as they pass through the narrows into the sound.
Even an island holiday shouldn’t involve any withdrawal symptoms (an island hopping golf holiday would be different indeed!) Arran has several excellent courses, Blackwaterfoot being particularly challenging. Islay has an excellent course at Machrie, Skye has a good 9 hole course at Sconser and Mull has two at Tobermory and Craignure. There is a very attractive one at Harris in the Outer Hebrides and even Orkney is thriving with a course near Kirkwall.
Pack up your golf clubs and come to Scotland. You will not be disappointed. And don’t worry too much about the weather, isn’t it a well-known fact that it never rains on a golf course?
